With Marella Agnelli on their minds, Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof conceived an insouciant and harmonious spring collection hinged on breezy silhouettes and the notion of comfortable elegance. “The idea was of a woman, the ‘Last Swan,’ throwing on a tunic and a pair of random slippers, before running down to the local market to buy porcini for the family table,” Runhof explained pre-show.
The clothes registered practicality, yet the mood was carefree, distracting from the fact much thought went into the fabrics. Some of the numbers had tiny sequins knitted into the linen before being hand-encrusted with guipure lace, echoing an old palazzo’s fading frescos, while the geometric prints were directly inspired by the architecture of Agnelli’s old Fiat factory in Turin.
More subdued than in previous seasons, the collection’s only extravaganza was a series of handsome, floor-sweeping caftans and undulating tunics shown with deliberately mismatched pointy satin slippers in eight different colors — shown as Caterina Valente’s vintage summer classic “Bongo Cha Cha Cha” played in the background.