Why can’t a woman look more like a clown — or a young Mick Jagger? Jun Takahashi set about that task in an eccentric, often messy Undercover spring collection with a tough, survivalist undercurrent.
Checkered stovepipe trousers and gleaming, buckled winklepicker boots opened the show, the rest of the suit chopped into components: the sleeves and jacket fronts strapped to the body with colorful ribbons. This deconstruction continued as bits of military jacket, trenchcoats and English tailoring mingled with ruffled collars and fantasy backpacks, one shaped like a castle. Backpacks were also merged into bad-ass nylon bomber jackets and camouflage-patterned trenchcoats.
The show became more feminine, and confounding, as Takahashi also added colorful tulle skirts, flowing silk tunics and a vintage playing-card print. Taking in the spectacle from the fourth row behind big, black sunglasses was Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons.