Hiromichi Ochiai has something of a reputation for churning out high-octane fashion shows with fast-strutting models and artistic flourishes. Last season’s show transpired beneath the glare of wince-inducing fluorescent lights, for example. This outing, which took place at a cultural center, felt more subdued — save for the models’ dramatic windswept hair and white face makeup. Thankfully the clothes were visually compelling with plenty of textural details and complex construction.
Ochiai worked panels and strips of fabric into intriguing compositions, such as a skin-baring top made up of black squares and several jackets that looked as if they had encountered a shredder before they hit the runway.
Other standout pieces incorporated men’s suiting and shirt fabrics — there were pinstripe wide-leg pants, drapy skirts with unfinished hems and a sharp-looking ruffled bustier worn over a shirtdress. Mandarin shirts were another key motif and included a boxy version worn with a pleated skirt over pants and another style reminiscent of a pajama top with matching bottoms. Overall, the collection felt edgy and cool. Much like his models’ hair, Ochiai appears to be going places.