This collective of young, emerging designers effectively kicked off Tokyo Fashion Week. In keeping with the mood of last season, many of the labels mined distinctly Japanese themes. Highlights included Soshi Otsuki’s men’s streetwear with detailing reminiscent of kimonos. One shirt was adored with square panels of fabric and bows that recalled an obi. Offering up a quirky take on local youth culture, Keisuke Yoshida toyed with school uniforms and proportions, sending out one male model in a boxy, oversize suit and a schoolgirl in a shirt with extra-long sleeves almost reaching her knees. Akiko Aoki went feminine, turning out lingerie-inspired sheer dresses and a pair of crystal-studded hot pants. Kotohayokozawa delivered a series of edgy skirts made from raw sheaths of leather. Ryota Murakami’s fare relied heavily on floral adornments like a pair of origami flowers placed on the lapels of one jacket. A pair of knit sneakers looked cool, but overall the lineup lacked cohesion.

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