Emilia Wickstead’s collection took a whimsical, youthful turn this season, filled with spriggy florals, pastel colors and diaphanous fabrics.
The designer said she’d been inspired by the retro decor of Brazilian love hotels, a place where young couples can spend time away from the prying eyes of their families. So the silhouettes tended toward the romantic — one nightgown-like dress in the delicate floral pattern had a sweetheart neckline and smocked sleeves, while a ruffled smock dress was in white broderie anglaise.
To temper that sweetness, Wickstead spiked the collection with a few jolts of color. She looked to Frank Lloyd Wright’s work for the deep, jewel tones, as in a jumpsuit with puffy sleeves done in a burnished red. Also playing into that mid-century mood, the designer took inspiration from Alexander Calder’s work, with an Empire line dress printed with abstract, primary-colored spots.
This girlish approach breathed a fresh appeal into Wickstead’s designs.