Jackie Lee’s spring collection was inspired by the notion of rebellious private-school girls who surreptitiously alter and customize their school uniforms so subtly that teachers don’t notice the changes. The geometric work of artist and sculptor Angela De La Cruz added another layer of influence, informing the graphic cross-hatch monochrome checks, the angles of seam details and the box-like tulle ponchos that were layered over dresses and coats.

The schoolgirl references were seen in pieces like the trompe l’oeil dress that was cut to look like a white blouse tucked into a navy skirt with a tiny ruffle demarcating the collar and placket.

The simplest concepts worked best here, as exemplified by the long-sleeve red silk dress with an understated drape detail that was topped with a red tulle “bag”; or the oversized double-breasted silk jacket with a black tulle “bag” over it, which would make a great cocktail dress option.

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