In this striking statement of a collection, Joseph’s creative director Louise Trotter mused on the idea of uniform and “cultural tribes.” “[It’s] a bit of a fascination for me, especially as I think Joseph created a uniform for women,” said Trotter, referencing the label’s late founder, Joseph Ettedgui.
Describing her muse as an “urban nomad,” Trotter swathed her male and female models in all manner of voluminous pieces — many of which played on the staples of the Joseph label, such as trenches, sweaters, track suits and shirts. One billowing trench was done in khaki chiffon, while an oversize shirtdress was fashioned from two pin-striped shirts fused together, so one acted as a top and the other as a skirt.
This crafted-together element was a leitmotif of the collection — Trotter took apart retro tracksuits and pieced them back together, to create a clash of colors. And she took disparate pieces and fabrics from the lineup — trenches, sweaters, shirts and toiles, and piled them all together in one look, illustrating, she said, how these eclectic looks, after initially “freeing” her muse, eventually “overburdens” them.
While plenty of these looks were no doubt expressive and directional, Trotter said that alongside more commercial pieces, they would sell as limited editions in the brand’s stores. “For me, luxury today is about handwork and handcrafting, it’s not just about luxury yarns,” Trotter said. “Luxury for me is time, and these pieces take an incredible amount of time.”