For her fifth collection as a new label (she was formerly at AllSaints and Vivienne Westwood), Danish designer Martine Jarlgaard riffed on a theme of time, both the passing of time and timelessness.

Working from a pared-back palette of black, white, gray, taupe and the palest blue — and a pop of orange that appeared on one maxiskirt — the designer offered up a refined collection of clothes that were of the moment and yet also refreshingly trend-free — no seasonal visual gimmicks here.

In an elegant play with volume, she teamed a pair of megawide, high-waisted gray palazzo pants that had slashed openings at the thigh with a demure off-the-shoulder top; a geometric neckline with a half-circle cutout on loose-fitting cotton tops looked smart tucked into pencil skirts with asymmetrical hems or high-waisted wide-leg trousers.

Print came via a monochrome watch pattern on a simple sheer dress. Especially fetching was a fluid floor-length black maxiskirt that had an open split cutout for a little sex appeal.

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