Roksanda Ilincic took a languid turn this season, with lots of layering and flowing silhouettes in an effort to channel the “freedom and laziness” of summer into her collection.
It was the designer’s very personal take on summer — less about hot sand and breaking waves and more about earth tones, breezy layers and surfaces as shimmery as a sun-dappled lake.
Babydoll-style dresses were layered over wide-leg trousers, while blouses fluttered from beneath suits, whose trousers came with sporty stripes down the leg. Dresses were long and flowing, some with skinny straps, others with racer backs, and others still knitted in a shade of reddish-brown.
The palette was more about lakes and mountains rather than the seaside, and took in rust, dark yellow, copper and dusty pink, with dashes of bright blue. “I was thinking about nature, pebbles, sunflowers — earth palettes,” said the designer.
There were dashes of high shine, too, as in one long copper coat — bright as a penny — that was made from what the designer called “liquid silk,” a weave that resembles duchess satin, while three-dimensional, wiry gold adornments shone from the buttons of suit jackets.
The blouses deserve honorable mention in what was an all-round charming collection. Signature, dramatic Roksanda creations, they came in sheer black with embroidery and lantern sleeves; in white with wisps of dark ostrich feathers, and in dusty pink with a pleated peplum detail.