Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones conjured a joyful mood with a playful — yet skillful — clash of colors, textures and prints.
The designers made Scotland their touchstone, opening the show with a film in which young Scots spoke about the country’s acceptance of “human diversity.” The duo drew on myriad elements of Scottish culture, inspired by everything from Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s patterns to the atmosphere of Scottish raves.
The collection fizzed with creativity, funneled through the duo’s well-crafted silhouettes. Negligee-style silk dresses with botanical prints had fluttering bias-cut hems, while a series of harder-edged pencil dresses were fashioned in satin, in patterns that mimicked the laser lighting at raves.
Added to this collage-like mix were skirts and trenches printed with abstract, primary-colored paint splotches by artist Tom Leamon. Drop-waist petticoat dresses with delicate lace panels were done in the Mackintosh prints, and cut with a subversive split revealing a sliver of hip.
The designers also sent out a few sporty men’s looks — color-blocked baseball jackets and shiny macs — marking their debut in the category.