The men’s shirt has been having a moment in women’s wear and Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi turned it out every which way, including loose. Striped shirts also came hugging the ribs tightly, cropped at the navel or stretched into a midi-dress caught at the waist with a ribbon. All came with wide, tubular sleeves and extralong French cuffs that hid the hands, or with streamers in lieu of French cuffs.
The duo also gave a feminine spin to the pinstriped banker suit, cutting jackets with dropped shoulders and a bit of swing. Pencil skirts were asymmetric, with coiling seams and jagged hems, reprising a hallmark of this eight-year-old label and winking to the Nineties, Aquilano said backstage.
Perhaps because men are dressing more casually for work, even on Wall Street, such feminized businesswear didn’t seem like the freshest idea out there, and the show started to drag.
Then the runway lit up with iridescent Lurex, carved into sexy racer-back tanks or cocktail sheaths that shimmered from red to orange, or blue to green. Even better were the languid Thirties cocktail dresses cut on the bias that sparkled with metallic sequins.
The shirt’s moment may be coming to an end.