Just over a year into his role as creative director for Emilio Pucci, Massimo Giorgetti is still working out his vision for the house. As with any iconic brand seeking a major reboot, the pressure is on to do something fresh and relevant with a powerful archive. Giorgetti has clearly decided on a more youth- and contemporary-driven collection, which is an attractive yet crowded position in the market. He’s dialed down the sultry sex appeal of his predecessor in favor of something sporty and simplified; now he has to make it distinct and he seems reluctant to rely totally on Pucci prints.
A lesser-known staple from the Pucci of yore is jersey. “There is a big experiment, a big challenge to move the iconic Pucci jersey dress into 2016,” Giorgetti said backstage, pointing to the opening range of draped jersey dresses in original Pucci brights: electric yellow, pink, red, blue and black. The silhouettes were midlength and modest with long sleeves and high necks. Some were layered with swimsuits in contrast colors and all pushed a striking color story that felt strong and current, even if jersey isn’t the most “now” of fabrics. Giorgetti’s pattern work came blown up on shirtdress embellished with simple knots and more impressively as wavy intarsias and knits on cropped tops and skirts, some shown with wacky raffia hats pulled down over the eyes. The impulse to offset big color and graphics with digestible shapes was easy to understand — maybe too easy. Giorgetti needs to focus on developing a sharp signature.