Fashion designers — and even perfumers — seem fascinated when signposts of masculine style are adopted by a woman. (Chanel’s latest exclusive perfume is Boy, after all.)
For spring, Francesco Scognamiglio went to town with the men’s shirt — or should we say, straight to the boudoir, for he can’t seem to resist a pair of lacy shorts and a stretch of bare thigh.
He extended many shirts, just a little, into short dresses: the white ones hugging the bosom with shirring, or sliding off shoulders, milkmaid style. More prim ones had little collars and point d’esprit jabots edged in crystal chains. Many were pretty, if occasionally flimsy.
Most of the show was in white and cream, the shirts occasionally joined by a mannish pantsuit, a showy brocade coat or a blouson encrusted with embroideries. Crystal medallions also hugged the shoulders of sweatshirts and meaty cardigans alike.
White, socklike go-go boots heightened the Sixties vibe, and the masculine notes of the collection — “la garçonne,” as the show notes called it — ultimately dissipated in the dry down.