The supersize movement set in motion by Demna Gvasalia — both at his Vetements project and at Balenciaga — can be seen in the windows of many high-street retailers, and also on the runway at Jil Sander, where Rodolfo Paglialunga made a case for Frankenstein shoulders, roomy sleeves and other clothes that threaten to swallow you up.
Outsize shoulder pads can read as provocative, or “Dallas” redux, but here they left you a bit cold, whether in pinstriped power suiting, as a pumpkin-colored leather top or a severe black dress with two fins of ruffles running down the back.
The Bermudas recalled Paglialunga’s debut at Sander back in 2014, when the designer took his bow in a pair teamed with knee-high black socks. The baggy shorts didn’t dazzle then, and they didn’t dazzle on Saturday.
What made you sit up and take notice was Paglialunga’s interpretation of the tight pleats advanced by Issey Miyake in the late Eighties, please and thank you. They looked terrific cut slightly on the bias for pencil skirts, their leanness heightened by the volume of billowing, crescent-shaped shoulders.
Editors in the front row lifted their camera phones when the first pleated look appeared: a belted peach-toned dress with batwing sleeves that crumpled elegantly. The white one that followed, with a neat collar and that hip-hugging skirt, was perhaps the best expression of Sander’s chic, exacting minimalism: not supersize, but just the right size.