Marco de Vincenzo wants to banish black from our wardrobes. The designer set the tone for another colorful lineup with the invitation to his spring show, which featured rainbow calligraphy and personalized stickers spelling out guests’ initials. “Rainbow is one of my codes,” he said backstage.
This season, he was inspired by a Fifties postcard of a Riviera scene that he imagined at different times of day, romping through a spectrum that ranged from vintage hues of forest green, antique pink, green ochre and petrol blue, to pops of vibrant scarlet, emerald and turquoise — often in joyfully clashing combinations.
Diagonal stripes added to the cocktail-shaker mix. Panels of two-tone fringe, trimmed in places to reveal embroidered birds and clouds, sprouted from tops, skirts, a flapper dress and statement coats, while oversize ruffles swirled around a striped one-shouldered dress.
The Fendi alum deployed a trove of enticing surface details, from graphic-colored string bows to vertical slits, ridged pleats, crochet, sequins and wool fringe. The postcard vista, meanwhile, was woven into lush jacquard coats or printed on the front of sheer white chiffon shirts.
The looks were shown for the first time alongside a smattering of men’s designs — think graphic Lurex sweaters and striped track pants — that were billed as an “aesthetic companion” to the women’s collection (no word yet on whether a full men’s line will follow).
Declaring himself fascinated by the impact of color on perception, de Vincenzo said he hoped women would embrace brighter shades.
“I think something is changing, especially in Italy, because we are discovering our maximalism in a certain way,” he said. “I hope color can be something new, not [just] on the catwalk, but in real life because I think color means a feeling, a mood. You can be minimalist and wear color. I hope black disappears or loses its power in fashion.”