Alessandro Dell’Acqua took his No. 21 collection in a romantic direction for spring, with lavishly layered outfits that merged decorative fabrics with sporty elements.

Using loose mesh as an underlayer, he created asymmetrical skirts by piling on panels of macramé lace, folkloric floral-print chiffon and pleated lamé. He toned down one of the exuberant creations by pairing it with a plain warm-up jacket, though strappy shoes with bows added a coquettish twist.

Flirty looks ran the gamut from a crisp white cotton summer dress with eyelet details to a gauzy Thirties-style embroidered slipdress, topped with a whisper of a sequined poncho. Parkas and anoraks were reworked in sophisticated patchworks of lace, duchesse satin and tulle in an inky palette of black and blues.

“I have played with masculine tailoring the last few years with No. 21 and this time, I wanted something hyperfeminine and light,” the designer explained backstage. That didn’t mean precious: Looks also included a chic sweatshirt with ruched chiffon sleeves and a band of yellow ostrich feathers sprouting from under the waistband.

Fans of his signature tailoring were left wanting this season, as a sea of ruffles, pom-poms and passementerie fringe gave the lineup a decidedly girly spin.