Calling his show “Castaway Romance,” Lorenzo Serafini drew on one of his favorite childhood movies, “Blue Lagoon,” for his spring collection. Given the source material, it’s no surprise the look was undone innocence and the threadbare sensuality of 19th-century clothes as seen through an Eighties lens.
“I’ve always been obsessed with the Eighties and ‘Blue Lagoon,’” said Serafini. “Maybe because it brings me back to very good memories.” He has waxed nostalgic about the Eighties in all of his collections for Philosophy, but this time he got a bit marooned in the flashback. The bulk of the lineup was soft dresses with asymmetric hems and frilly trims done in washed-out colors. Cut light and loose to flirtatiously fall off the shoulders and away from the body as befits a nubile shipwrecked goddess, they were pretty on their own but taken to an Eighties extreme via outsize studded and wrapped leather belts and white scrunched booties wrapped up in rope. Floral Victorian-inspired dresses with pearl button, some raw denim pieces and the relatively subdued black siren dresses that came out toward the end of the show were the lineup’s strongest. Serafini obviously amped up the effects for the runway and the clothes will be better off without the exaggerated accessories and brash color pairings of black against sorbet pastels, but perhaps it’s time to keep the Eighties as a fond memory.