Ferragamo is a brand in flux. The spring collection was the house’s first women’s show since the departure of creative director Massimiliano Giornetti in March, and its subsequent ceo switcheroo (Michele Norsa out; Eraldo Poletto in) in August. The design team effort was led by head of women’s ready-to-wear Fulvio Rigoni, who took the bow for the collection. Oh also, Paul Andrew is incoming as design director of shoes, with his first collection due for pre-fall.

With so much change happening at once, it seems unfair to put too much weight on the spring collection, which felt like an interim run. In other words, lacking in a distinct point of view yet innocuous. As the show notes explained, the “collection reconnects with its stylistic heritage and progresses with contemporary experimentation.” To break that down, the shoes were updates of the famous Rainbow platform, here refashioned into a stacked, platform wedge socklike sneaker in black, brown, green, etc., and strappy futuristic Goth sandals set on the same sole — clunkers, both. The clothes were mostly derived from a slim, nipped-waist skirt and dress silhouette with a swishy hem. Some came with voluminous, rounded shoulders and bunched sleeves; others with ruched or corseted bodices. They were pleasingly modernist in cut and color, done in a palette of acid pastels and brights that popped against drab brown, black and green. Floral prints were pretty. Tailored sportswear separates were wearable. The last line on the press notes declared in all caps: “FERRAGAMO IS AN ATTITUDE.” Which one? Stay tuned.

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