Elegant and pop are two words that can definitely work together to create a harmonious collection. But this wasn’t the case at Trussardi, despite the efforts of creative director Gaia Trussardi, who not only called her spring line, “Elegantly Pop,” but also wrote a song, bearing the same name, which was performed live at the show. During a backstage interview, Trussardi mentioned postmodernism, futurism, uptown girls and the brand’s signature sophistication as core elements of the lineup.

Unfortunately, the looks on the catwalk — metallic leather, PVC printed with the Trussardi logo, Lurex cycling shorts and leggings, an overabundance of shimmering fabrics, weird color combinations — were neither very intellectual nor artistic. Everything conveyed a sense of disorientation, an unexpected reaction to a line from a fashion house long known for an iconic, polished, luxurious image.

There were certainly some pieces — unfortunately too few — that echoed the great craftsmanship of Trussardi. These included a feminine suede dress with a high slit worked in a sober color palette of powdery tones, as well as a soft peach cardigan embellished with applied suede pockets. These showed the lighter hand that was missing in the rest of the collection.