“Ironic but not cynical” was how Wolfgang Joop described his collection for Wunderkind.

There was certainly something playful and irreverent in his spring show, the first held by the brand in Milan.

Joop drew a new silhouette with oversized, rounded shoulders and hips. A sculpted, exaggerated version of the hourglass shape came in a bustier dress worked in a dotted silk fabric combined with mannish houndstooth, as well as in a fresh shirtdress printed and embroidered with multicolor flowers.

A surreal feel ran through the lineup, which offered transparent PVC trenchcoats embellished with leather patches, as well as a fairy tale-inspired pattern appearing on a white cotton dress cinched at the waist with a raffia and leather corset belt.

Despite the focus on more quintessentially feminine designs, Joop also introduced sartorial suits, including a linen option paired with a maxi polka-dot silk blouse with a built-in scarf.