Calvin Luo’s spring collection had a rebellious spirit within its minimally deconstructed silhouettes. With only three collections to his name, Luo has shown a polished hand at modifying classics into ready-to-wear-off-the-runway pieces that appeal to young women.
Elements of deconstruction figured heavily in the lineup, from zipper details on sleeves to disproportionate cuts and off-shoulder draping. Standouts included a plaid coat that was cut with two fabrics and featured differing hemlines, and a checkered top with an asymmetric neckline and embroidered with “I’m Over You” (one of many random statements seen throughout).
Luo’s strongest looks riffed on traditional shirting but in cropped and off-the-shoulder designs, such as a great long-sleeved draped shirtdress and a khaki cold-shouldered shirt paired with playful color-blocked pants. Men’s looks were polished and preppy, featuring color-block knits and spacious trousers.