With ample drama and froth, Delpozo’s spring runway show was yet another deeply transportive, whimsical journey into the mind of creative director Josep Font. His latest collection, “Luminosity,” drew from the works of two differing artists known to rely on the interplay of light. First there was Spanish Impressionist Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida, whose 19th-century portraits, landscapes and plein air paintings earned him the title “master of light.” Font was particularly taken with Sorolla’s luminous seascapes featuring the Mediterranean sea. Next was the contemporary South Korean artist Soo Sunny Park, whose “Unwoven Light” series of metallic and iridescent Plexiglas sculptures suspend from walls and ceilings in shimmering, twisted abstract forms.
Backstage before the show, the Delpozo girls, straight out of a fantastical fairy tale, milled about the room in dresses and coats with bulbous, unexpected proportions, their earlobes decorated with gigantic chandelier earrings made of sequins. Font said exploring lightness and transparency was his primary focus, imparting the ideas with crisp, airy textures; shining embellishments and weightless silhouettes. His opening look — a silk lamé floral-printed dress in a custom shade of “Sorolla” blue, pleated at the waist with a voluminous, tea-length hemline — appeared to float down the runway. Ditto to a green and lavender polka-dotted fil coupé gown, with contrasting ruffled layers that mimicked a blossoming flower at the bust. Elsewhere, Font showcased his bold, geometric silhouettes — this season inspired by calla lilies, featuring a renewed focus on petal-shaped sleeves — with diaphanous and lightweight fabrics, including a number of looks in linen and cotton poplin.
Other looks featured transparencies, as in a layered miniskirt with a sheer, floor-skimming overlay tinged with gold. Red carpet starlets love a nearly nude, allover sheer dress that screams sex, but Font’s version of the style — a long and loose sleeveless gown with bold orange bows and sheer, color-blocked stripes — will require someone with a bit more moxie. And that goes for most of his collection. Without question, Font’s work transports and awes with its beauty. Yet it would be interesting — and to his commercial benefit — to see Font incorporate into his glorious flights of fancy more looks that are a little more down to earth.