Movement, transparency, light — those are go-to words in the vocabulary of Dion Lee, who referenced kinetic sculptures for spring, aiming to create movement in his collection through textiles and surface texture. He achieved it with fluid, oversize silhouettes that moved away from the body, completely eschewing the sexy, body-conscious styles on which his label was built: Think sheer maxiskirts with floating satin stripes or slinky pleated-silk dresses, with several of the looks vented and spliced for added weightlessness.
The tailored pieces that opened the show had a minimalist utility vibe, most notably a camel trenchcoat with a thick waist belt and silver hardware. The new, more athletic direction of the collection was a welcome change of pace from Lee’s usual fare. He introduced pink parachute silk and translucent nylon into his lineup, used on track pants and zip-up jackets with elongated, cutaway hemlines that floated behind the models as they walked down the runway in flat, multibuckle sandals. Even a pair of knitted sequin dresses had a subtly sporty vibe thanks to racer-back silhouettes.