A focus on sensuality and the body opened up Gabriela Hearst’s range for spring with a few shocks of color, bare silhouettes and increased construction. She broke away form the classic palette she’s drawn to with deep red and cobalt deployed on sexy, sporty looks — a red off-the-shoulder bodysuit with matching high-waisted trousers and a cobalt halter bodysuit with a pleated blue skirt with hardware closures. “I see the 20-year-olds in our office, and when they go to get coffee, they’re always dressing really sexy during the day,” said Hearst. “I think it’s because they don’t go out at night and the mating happens at the coffee shop.”
She might be onto something. The bodysuits made for a bold, definitely head-turning day look, but will also play well into evening for many women, as did a light blue sponge crepe T-shirt dress with a subtle, corsetry-seamed bodice and a long, raw-edged skirt. The collection had plenty of luxurious staples — shirts, Henleys, knit dresses and an olive twill trench to keep forever — but the most interesting pieces had a modernist sense of occasion, such as a jumpsuit that was tailored on one side and flou on the other.