Josie Natori could not have been more relaxed. Not only did she toss aside almost all hints of structure, but she brought out her inner hippie for spring. Sure, this is the season for fluid shapes, but Natori went all out with peasant blouses, Stevie Nicks dresses, tiers, florals and flower power — seeing it all as “more personal — and playful.”

Most charming, and showing more volume than usual, was the shirtdress of sorts, in rust or olive cotton poplin with nine yards of a tiered and flounced skirt swirling from a cinched waist. She also showed bralettes — especially embroidered and raffia-detailed versions — with full pants and slender skirts. The requisite slipdress was here as well, a beauty in an embroidered floral crepe, but shown under an unnecessarily trendy bomber jacket, shimmering in an appliquéd jacquard. Natori did show one mention-worthy coat done in tan basket-weave cloth. The lean wrapped shape was conservatively slit on the sides and front and richly embellished with embroidery and fringes along the sleeves.

This show was yet another step — a huge leap, in fact — that firmed up Natori’s niche as a ready-to-wear designer, far from any confinements of the lingerie for which she is so well known.

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