Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig don’t have to reinvent the wheel to get noticed. They have successfully mixed a fashion potion of fluffy, ultrafeminine confections for their Marchesa collections. For spring, they opted for a palette that celebrates light — from sunrise to midnight. Corseted bodices, cascading ruffles and sequined 3-D flowers decorated a frothy range of organza, tulle and lamé gowns.

While their loyal ladies love the embellishments, the designers may attract a younger fan base with their sensual sheaths — some embroidered with relative restraint. One, a mint tulle column with flutter sleeves and an iridescent lamé and lace trim, was beautiful. A fit-and-flare silhouette was perfect for the designers’ calf-length slip in stretch silk crepe, with its cut-out sides, bra-strap back and lace hem. Any description of a Marchesa dress will always seem excessive — there’s typically quite a lot going on — but this season Chapman and Craig also showed a lovely sense of restraint — here and there.

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