Narciso Rodriguez knows exactly what he’s doing. His spring collection reflected the wisdom of someone who has spent nearly 20 years at the helm of his own label, constantly renewing a laser-focused vision with his client and her exacting tastes in mind. The lineup was a beautiful, powerful display of doing the most with the least, meaning only the finest essentials — no BS. That was precisely the idea.
“I wanted to show in a much more intimate way,” said Rodriguez before the show, which was scaled back in size and number of looks to a tidy 32. “I wanted to bring it back to the clothing, not the spectacle of a fashion show, and wanted everyone to appreciate the work and the materials.” Both took the spotlight in a collection about light with photogram prints drawn from Rodriguez’s own photographs of light, lightweight fabrics and cuts liberated from anything superfluous.
The look was sporty, with the fast athletic inflections of tanks, trousers and tailored jackets — in bright orange and black, a quicksilver stripe here and there. Yet it was naturalistic and elemental, too, as Rodriguez worked in linen on spare, almost rustic tunic-shirtdresses and liquid, laminated silks. One of the best looks was remarkably simple: a black bonded-silk cardigan coat over a white pebble-silk cardigan dress that moved together like mercury. A navy trench with a white strip down the opening over a silver-coated silk satin tank dress made the idea of wearing a metallic dress to the office seem like a great, easy idea. And Rodriguez upped the luster ante in a chic, non-flashy way for evening with slick, coated bias-cut slips with metal embroideries, worn with stripped down, men’s-inspired flats done in delicate patent faille. Heels might have added height, but the dresses didn’t need any elevation.