Prabal Gurung, in his show notes, dedicated his spring collection to his mother and her personal fight against male chauvinism. To reinforce the feminist attitude, he also cited “My Life on the Road,” the book by Gloria Steinem, one of the minds behind the push for female equality.
How did this translate into the clothes? Instead of empowering women by dressing them like men, Gurung portrayed an extreme and varied femininity. Most of the silhouettes were fluid with bias lines injecting movement into the pieces, which included an array of slipdresses and skirts, often matched with lightweight, intarsia knits. High slits gave sensuality to a rigorous cotton satin shirtdress and a high-waisted leather skirt embellished with piercing-like metallic details handgraved in Nepal.
Paired with asymmetric constructions, the floral patterns the designer worked into the lineup looked a tad too heavy-handed and the theatrical plissé details blossoming from the sleeves of a maxidress and a tunic worn with wide-legged pants felt a bit out of context. Despite Gurung’s mixing and matching of too many elements, the collection was cohesive and offered a number of elegant, pretty numbers — including an exquisite hand-painted burnout velvet dress with cutouts worked in an intense blue and purple palette.