The weather gods were in Rachel Comey’s corner: What began as a cloudy, windy day turned into a beautiful one — a good thing since she had no contingency plan for her outdoor show. Celebrating her 15th anniversary, the indie designer took her spring lineup back to the streets, where she first showed her then all men’s wear collection. Comey, now with her own freestanding stores, has developed a bit of a cult following: Parker Posey, Rashida Jones and Leandra Medine were all in attendance.
The collection was filled with effortless looks, driving home the point that Comey designs clothes for real women. She showed plenty of feminine ruffled and detailed tops with a cool edge — a flirty eyelash-embroidered jumpsuit, trendsetting quilted jackets, an Ikat print camp shirt and shorts and easy tie-dye tops — that did not disappoint. The denim looks were especially strong: an array of cool engineered jeans with fringe and cut-out waist details. She also played with the juxtaposition of a snakeskin printed on linen; the contrast worked, especially in the jumpsuit and coat combo. And in a nod to evening, the designer showed a gold lamé romper and chain link dress that riffed on Studio 54.
Comey also dove back into men’s wear — which she abandoned once her women’s business began to outgrow it — noting she was influenced by her young male staffers who were wearing many of her women’s pieces, but wanted more options.
The items, which the designer said are unisex, included easy button-up shirts — one with a multicolored psychedelic print — long, lightweight jackets and wide cropped pants. She even reinterpreted her popular denim culottes to have a straighter fit from the waist to the hip. There were also unisex footwear styles such as a flat leather espadrille and slip-on leather sneaker. It all was a welcome return that didn’t veer away from Comey’s cool girl — and guy — aesthetic.