Spring marked a new era for Rag & Bone: David Neville stepped down as co-chief executive officer in June and Marcus Wainwright, the label’s creative director, took a solo bow at the end of the show. “We wanted to take the presumptive styles America is famous for and see if we could spin them on their heads,” said Wainwright — who admitted to preshow jitters — of his latest lineup, which aimed to rework classic college prep through a twisted lens.
Wainwright’s girls were sporty, effortless tomboys who wore oversize, pinstriped shirtdresses and slouchy V-neck collegiate sweaters with utilitarian cargo corduroys and cotton twill chinos. The still-hot athletic trend — think varsity jackets, nylon anoraks, head-to-toe sweats, even an eight-ball leather bomber — was remixed here with relaxed proportions and a bold, graphic palette. Micro-floral-printed patchwork dresses, including one with a lace-up halter neckline, paired with knee-high patent leather boots, winked at the Nineties.
As for the men’s wear, Rag & Bone revisited some of its greatest hits with the same utility and athletic references, graphic stripes and refined tailoring in topcoats and softly constructed suits. The pops of color were on-trend for the season, as were the updated leathers and flowing anoraks with cargo pockets. Wainwright said he “twisted the cliché of Americana” with classic English fabrics, such as the Cambridge rowing stripes he used for jackets and pants. “We just did cool clothes using craftsmanship, quality and authenticity,” he said. What Rag & Bone does — deliver simple, yet chic quality pieces — it does well, and this season was no exception. The brand managed to stay close to its core consumer and create the perfect wardrobe for the globe-trotting guy.