Ryan Roche’s key references for spring were two parts. First, her childhood obsession with a neighbor’s palomino horse dictated the striking spectrum of tawny browns, nudes and whites. Second, a subtle homage to Princess Diana came through in new structured shoulders on knits and lace pieces.
Showing the collection with the models arranged in a square group formation cast the clothes in a very serene, harmonious light. Roche’s long, languid proportions have a dancer’s grace — here, hammered home by a performance by Julian MacKay, the 18-year-old American soloist in St. Petersburg, Russia’s Mikhailovsky Ballet. The quiet palette and soft shapes blended for a big impact as a group, but the individual looks were quite strong and varied on their own. A tea-length, light nude jersey T-shirt dress with lace panels on the side was as chicly graceful as it gets, while the same color on a lace turtleneck blouse belted over matching lace pants killed, but softly.