In the interest of keeping things moving, Self-Portrait’s Han Chong, who has quickly built the label into a destination for guipure dresses that stand out at a party, worked a tailoring angle for spring. “I’ve been doing lace for a while,” he said backstage. “I mixed in tailoring because I want to push it.”
The pinstripe men’s shirting that has been in heavy rotation up and down the market made a few appearances, as did utility jackets in floral jacquard and some skinny pants cropped just below the knee. Tailoring is not at all boyish in Chong’s hands. He flexed with new fabrics, such as embroidered suede cut to look like lace on a jumpsuit, and decorative effects, like big round buttons on trousers and skirts with panels hung from rings.
All of Chong’s work is done with a commercial hand, though some of the more decorated fare felt a little overwrought. The bright side of that was that the showpieces put a spotlight on the more commercial looks, including the full-skirted white lattice guipure lace dress that fell off one shoulder and a black crepe mididress with frilled cutouts at the waist.