For spring, Donna Kang, Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein thought about dressing their friends, a lively cast of New York characters that includes their number-one muse Haley Loewenthal, the label’s go-to stylist (and also Eckstein’s girlfriend). “There’s a men’s wear influence mixed in,” Weiland said of the colorful, print-centric collection. “The dresses aren’t overly feminine or overly pretty; everything has a borrowed-from-the-boys feel,” added Eckstein, holding up a languid and loose silk T-shirt dress in an abstract brown-and-black tiger print.
A boxy, suede camel jacket — which was first designed in the brand’s men’s wear collection — was remixed for women with oversize circular hardware and contrasting pockets in white crackle leather for graphic punch. Silk drawstring boxing shorts in a zigzag print underscored the lineup’s tomboy attitude, as did color-blocked polo knits with exaggerated collars.
The trio didn’t totally abandon touches of romance and femininity, which they subtly weaved throughout the lineup — as in a pair of cute, cropped trousers with a ruffled, fringed hemline or a sleeveless printed silk dress finished with dramatically long shoulder straps meant to hang loose. The bold prints, mixed with relaxed silhouettes, perfectly captured the arty, effortless downtown girl that they aimed to dress this season.