Designer Sara Hankin has a sense of calm collectedness that translated into her minimally chic, well-thought-out Tosia offering. For spring, she drew inspiration from two artists — modern choreographer Pina Bausch, who played with ideas of feminine strength and vulnerability; and Mexican architect Luis Barragán, who contrasted clean shapes with unexpected uses of color — for an easy, sensual collection she referred to as modernist tropicalia.
For Hankin, the design is in the details. Raw Japanese denim was a big push, seen on jackets with unfinished edges and bell sleeves, a skirt with hand-fringe details and an apronlike dress with the same fringing that was both covered up and sexy. Cropped flared denim trousers with a jewelrylike buckle were elevated takes on jeans. Hankin also played with delicate string ties on great cold-shoulder shirting and lots of mushroom pleating. She rendered Australian knits, cotton shirting and hemp silks into chic asymmetric tops with shoulder appeal. It was all clean and modern, feminine and easy.
This season Hankin also collaborated with Melissa Joy Manning for a capsule of jewelry pieces made with gemstones — moonstones, fire agate, blue lace agate — done in modernist shapes with gold and silver.