Backstage, following what felt like a never-ending show, designer Vivienne Hu said the collection was a tribute to the strength of New Yorkers following the 9/11 attacks, with a focus on women standing powerful, strong and even a little sexy. The sentiment, though nice, didn’t translate into a cohesive collection. Hu showed a paint-splatter-print trenchcoat, a sheer white lace jumpsuit, mesh-paneled pants, a floral-print crop top and matching skirt, a skintight striped onesie with side cutouts, military green men’s wear silhouettes, etc, etc — without a common theme linking the looks together. Nothing was necessarily poorly made, but the collection could have benefited from elevated fabric choices and a major edit.

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