Romantic, airy-fairy references are never Yeohlee Teng’s inspiration. The art world is what nurtures her Yeohlee collections. Some references are more visible than others, but nonetheless, always there. For spring, Richard Serra and Frank Lloyd Wright informed what she called her “use of space; proportions; play of positive/negative…white with navy or black.”
Given her skillful and cerebral attention to silhouette and detail, Yeolee’s seemingly effortless styling made her lineup all the more impressive. And with her assortment of pant shapes — lean and cropped, long and wide-legged, culottes, tulip-cut, belled, belted and basic — compatibility mattered. For instance, she showed a slender, knee-length coat in khaki cotton and silk with an infusion of metal, thrown over a stark butter-hued cotton tank and pants in a gray, white and navy striped cotton. Another look, a long, outsize black silk drape-back shirt, was paired with a lean side-slit skirt. And a khaki trouser was worn under a navy and white brushstroke-cotton lawn duster.
Another reminder of how beautifully Yeohlee does stark: a black-and-white tuxedo dress with the collarbone neckline carved slightly higher in back. Like much of what makes these clothes special, this was a cleverly creative detail that seemed almost private.