It’s a season of minimal cutting and free-hanging fabric, and to an extreme degree at Acne Studios, where the usual crisp and minimal cool yielded to a granola-crunchy earthiness.
Creative director Jonny Johansson became enamored with gauzy, patterned scarves and pieced them into bohemian caftans, tunics and loose judo pants and jumpsuits.
The predominance of paisleys occasionally made one think of Etro, a brand so closely associated with that pattern. But the Italian house would never cut such enveloping volumes for robe coats and bed jackets, the arms drowned in giant sleeves.
The models, some bespectacled, had the look of geography students who crammed on too much caffeine, their lips gray and complexions ashen.
Some wore oversize patchwork sweaters that were so ugly they were kinda cute — what the French call jolie laide.