It was a black-and-white situation at Ann Demeulemeester this season, with creative director Sébastien Meunier basing his spring collection on deconstructed shirts and suits.
He used touches of crisp white cotton to lighten up black tuxedo jackets and cutaway tailcoats — an errant collar here, a sleeve there, secured with a cross-body strap. Shirts were draped across the body in asymmetric constructions, exposing bare upper arms encased in wide silver cuffs linked to a finger by a chain.
Underlining the duality underpinning the outfits — and the label’s aesthetic — Meunier layered an elongated coat with a trompe-l’oeil lapel over satiny striped pajama bottoms and a sheer vest embroidered with the words “True White.” Its pennant, a trailing black mesh top over black pants, carried the message “True Black.”
Light versus dark, good versus evil — it wasn’t hard to draw the connection, especially with a soundtrack of Leonard Cohen drawling about struggling with demons. There was no clear winner, suggesting that Meunier — like most everyone — is a bit of both.