Anne Sofie Madsen delved into the nitty-gritty of garment construction with her spring collection, which featured outfits pieced together from paper patterns. She jumped on the oversize bandwagon with items like a biker jacket made from a stiff white material covered in sketches. It turns out Madsen, who trained under John Galliano and later worked for Alexander McQueen, is also an accomplished illustrator. Her delicate pencil drawings of teenage boys appeared on a deconstructed jacket that was part toile, part collage.
McQueen’s influence could be felt in high-necked ruffled shirts, split in the back and worn with baggy trousers with extra panels of fabric that were pinched and seamed into sculptural folds. Madsen draped raw-seamed sartorial fabrics into a crop top, which she paired with black bondage pants with glistening vinyl straps. In lieu of show notes, the designer handed out sheets of stickers with images that inspired the collection. They included a camping tent (which was turned into a cape); a chameleon; a wrecked car; masking tape (used to piece together tops and a skirt), and a rhinestone midriff chain.
Shown on models wearing nerdy reading glasses, the outfits had an ugly chic appeal.