If Christian Wijnants’ spring runway felt like a tale of two collections with an invisible line drawn somewhere in the middle, it’s because it was. He combined his resort and spring lineups to streamline his message for the press (resort is sold to buyers separately). Knowing that, it was easier to overlook the fact that the show took a hard left turn midway through.
Inspired by the wrapping techniques and parachute effects of the work of Christo, the roomy silhouettes cut for breezy volume were consistent and gave the lineup an arty eccentricity. The first portion of the show, though — done in daffy polka dots, large-scale and small, as well as solid orange and cobalt blue — skewed a bit clownish. By abrupt comparison, the second half, filled with dense, electric florals that popped neons against black or white, felt more energetic and relevant. Wijnants said he divided the show into the poetic and the powerful, with the latter portion inspired by summer music festivals. But the florals shown on exaggerated cargo shorts, T-shirts with extralong sleeves and loose bohemian dresses were far more sophisticated than standard Coachella fare.