What’s most impressive about Marianna Rosati’s approach to skins is her ability to spin fabriclike qualities on them, evoking silk, cotton and poplin, for instance. And that helps when you’re a leather-focused brand, and it’s springtime.
Notably, with Drome’s ruffled blouses in talclike leathers and body-con ruched minis and bustier tops in sweet hues like lemon and pistachio, leather became putty in her hands.
On the softer pieces, loose-volume leather tops and dresses in makeup tones came draped around the body, held by a series of easy knots. Elsewhere, an abstract brushstroke print in primary colors energized ladylike Fifties-style dresses.
The stronger silhouettes with exaggerated sleeves and shoulders — with the designer using rigid bonded skins to sculpt new shapes — were technically impressive but less easy on the eye. A new line of gauzy cotton knits woven from thick “fettuccine” threads with graphic holes worked into them, won’t be to everyone’s liking, either. “That’s some moth,” muttered one guest.
The designer also sent out after-dark jumpsuits and dresses in bonded hologram leathers with a futurist vibe.
“I wanted to explore the idea of angelic beauty that’s a little weird, a little dark,” said Rosati.