With its stage in the shadow of the Louvre in the outdoor terrace of restaurant du jour, Loulou, the label, a collective whose members include Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, lighting guru Thierry Dreyfus and photographer Alessandra d’Urso, sallied forth with its art-meets-fashion concept.
Among the themes was the idea of the cleaned-up punk, with camouflage pinafore dresses, single-breasted blazers with rough scarring in gold trim embroidery, sexy black leather dresses pierced with gold eyelets and hooded sweatshirts peppered with military badges marked La Fratrie (brotherhood). A sweater that splayed open at the back, embroidered with rows of colored ribbons, was among the sweeter moments, along with the tailored navy silhouettes with gold-strip accents.
There was a vague France-meets-L.A. thing at play, too, like the show’s second look, a tailored suit that juxtaposed classic suiting fabric with bleached denim on the lower legs, and the closing black suede jacket a-swinging with fringing.
These were well-constructed pieces, but the merch-friendly nature of the collection at times was upstaged by the dance performance on the adjacent lawn. The contemporary positioning of the label feels somewhat out of sync with the intensity of the creative concepts that surround and nourish it.
What really grabbed people’s attention was a so-called “fire poem” by Each x Other member Robert Montgomery: A wooden structure forming the words “All Palaces Are Temporary Palaces” went up in flames, prompting waiters from Loulou to come running with ice buckets filled with water as Louvre security looked on disapprovingly. Now that’s punk.