The last days of disco have not come to pass at Elie Saab, where swingy blingy clothes for women who live in the orbit of a mirrored ball were the only option for spring. The show’s title, “Standing on Stardust,” was literal — the runway was dusted in gold glitter, just like many of the dresses, gowns and separates. In fact, the whole shebang was star spangled, as Saab stocked his runway with big faces — Karlie Kloss, Gigi Hadid, Hailey Baldwin — and let no five-point embellishment go to waste.
There were colorful, graphic star prints on taut minidresses with capes; black stars embroidered on a sheer, tulle flared mini worn over a bodysuit; silver lone stars on the collar of a blouse worn with a short, pleated mini; sequined stars on a tuxedo jacket and shorts; a relatively minimalist white star set into the bust of a black jumpsuit, and so on. None of it was subtle, nor was it meant to be.
The Seventies-Eighties vibe was hard to miss, especially on a shiny blue crisscross halter gown with a pleated skirt and a black satin leg-of-mutton-sleeve jacket over a gown with a star-embroidered bodice. When the theme is disco, a cheese-factor is to be expected, but the clothes never looked cheap and there were moments of modern glamour. A lean black jumpsuit trimmed in sparkling strips of fringe was over the top in a fresh, fabulous way. Saab’s clients are looking for the limelight, even if it’s for one night only.
He gave them a plenty of ways to shine.