The designer seized on the Eighties, which have come roaring back in fashion, and he did not edit out the garish bits, clashing lime green with grape purple, and brocade fabrics with florals.
Yet he captured the joie de vivre and racy spirit of the brand in his short, one-shoulder or bustier dresses, occasionally sprouting a huge sleeve, or a ridge of stiff ruffles.
The finlike decorations detailed everything from outseamed, tight leather pants to the shoulders of ladylike bomber jackets in silk gazar. They also jutted up from shoulders to frame the face, recalling a Viktor & Rolf couture collection of yore.
The prettiest looks were the simplest: a glossy off-the-shoulder top and a white wrap skirt, for example, or a one-strap dress with a single ruffle spilling from the hip. Those looks captured Stéphanie’s regal-yet-rebellious allure.