“We like to work contrasts, mixing traditional shirting fabrics with subversive constructions and fabrics,” said codesigner Andreas Huber. You betcha.

The collection moved between spare-cut feminized spins on men’s wear like reversible pinstripe coats in cool wool and striped shirt dresses in silky cotton with panels that unbuttoned at the back, giving them a soupçon of sexy.

The line also revisited wardrobe basics, including functional outerwear like windbreakers and raincoats and street-edge sportswear such as superwide-cut trousers and baseball-inspired T-shirts with gently undulating hems.

Then came the alter-ego numbers: amped-up takes on the ath-leisure trend like rubber apron dresses and shiny black Army pants dappled in a flocked patent material and look-at-me vinyl track pants dipped in a bright mustard shade. The attitude was hard but the vibe of these forward-looking materials was surprisingly fresh and light.