Bill Gaytten distilled the essence of John Galliano — diaphanous Thirties dresses, jaunty buccaneer tailoring and a sense of history — into a fine and pretty spring collection.

The opening trousers and jackets in meaty natural linen, dyed to look stained, fed Gaytten’s storyline of a young girl rummaging through trunks of yellowed castoffs, along with shiny new things.

She’ll try on anything, as long as it doesn’t hide her satin-trimmed underwear. Cue delicate blouses with ties and streamers, and wispy, bias-cut dresses. A diaphanous navy number paved with tiny bugle beads arranged in “negative florals” was a marvel of intricate workmanship, the embroidered parts as fluid as the silk chiffon.

The house just opened a Marais flagship to show potential partners its new direction, hinged on premium contemporary lines for women, men and children alongside a selection of evening gowns and exclusive accessories.

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