Hong Kong-based Studio Berçot alum Anais Mak, whose Jourden label was one of the finalists for the 2015 LVMH Prize, sought to rebel against the predominant street-style trend with her kooky interpretation of femininity.
Mak played with an abundance of textures that vied for attention — metallic jacquards and tweeds, geometric embroideries, smocking, ruffles, fil coupé. Double-layered fabrics were melded to create a futuristic bubble wraplike floral motif on midlength skirts, halter tops and a white coat.
Although texture has been a key theme in her previous collections, too, there was more transparency here, making for a slightly airy feel, thanks to the white tulle background for graphic polka-dot embroideries hot-pressed to give a metallic shine, used on several dresses, blouses and pants.
Pointed collars on striped knits, crisp shirts and dresses sharpened up the lines of some looks, as on a maxidress that usurped striped Oxford shirting fabric with smocked panels in contrasting shades designed to look like stripes.