Julien David is the latest in a string of designers who has decided to parade his women’s spring collection alongside men in June. For one, David explained backstage, he was so far into the creative process, it didn’t make sense to separate the two. Secondly, “this made more sense commercially. We can have the women’s line in stores by the end of November, which is two months earlier than before,” he noted, adding that a complementary capsule would ensure fresh deliveries throughout the season.

 

As for the main line, David took cues from an ocean wave — in all its colors, shapes and movements — as he played with  patterns and textures. A round-shaped smock coat was rendered in a cross-dyed tropical wool fabric, which produced slightly undulating forms as the models briskly marched down the runway. On a body-hugging cotton-jersey cardigan and matching column skirt, 3-D zigzag stitching imitated the spikes of wave crests, while a light jacquard looked cool and crafty on an oversize suit ensemble as well as a dungaree dress, both woven with little colored ropes.

 

Yet the standout category — both in terms of cuts and textures — was denim. David conjured a soft variety, bio stonewashed and done up in a palette of rainbow colors, which he used for street-friendly kimono coats, balloon pants as well as his signature workwear jackets. Elsewhere, stretch indigo denim looked like a tapestry fabric. It was witty and fun.

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