Junichi Abe’s idea of the Kolor woman continues to take shape nicely. The Japanese designer gets a kick out of playing on notions of good taste, here mixing kitsch Asian references like dragon prints into his characteristically eccentric lineup, and upturning codes, embossing polyester to mimic crocodile skin.
The collection was both bang on trend and charming in its delivery, tumbling together masculine, feminine and sportive elements and blurring boundaries between manmade and natural fabrics. On busy, layered up silhouettes Abe clashed granny florals, flash colors, print and shine, like metallic skirts with tulle overlayers. A techy hybrid nylon anorak sported black lace panels; sarouels were revisited in pleated floral chiffon; incongruous metallic dots came sprinkled over a black skirt in a micro floral print, and military jackets sprouted ruffles. His signature fitted sweatshirts resurfaced, one sporting the word “Humidity” in acid green at the neckline with a floral collar and ruffled zip at the back.
There’s a girly quirkiness to the way the designer pulls silhouettes together, but it’s all well thought through. The clothes have a lived in feel, but on close inspection are super modern, as Abe’s unique take on individual dressing.