The setting for this upbeat, club-infused collection couldn’t have been more fitting: the industrial basement of the Palais de Tokyo.
Lutz Huelle pumped up volumes to sandwich-board proportions, playing on material contrasts like orange cotton crepe and denim to distort notions of space, and tinkering with the shoulder lines of trenches — widening them and folding them back in on themselves to create a double outline. He toned things down on asymmetric slips and deceptively simple pleated bias-cut dresses, tailored cape jackets (a spin on his archival cardigan capes) and black dresses with electric blue mesh inserts.
The designer continued his hybrid signatures with his take on the summer dress: denim jackets and bombers fused with long skirts with high side slits in fluid crepe or weighty lace. V-neck camouflage coats were edged with pink piping, ensuring they wouldn’t blend in. The show’s pop platform boots and shoes — produced in collaboration with Robert Clergerie, and cut from Crayola blue and green fabric — again played on the illusion of the elongation of the silhouette.
Part of Huelle’s appeal is his ability to blow ideas up and tone them down, to mix commercial appeal with fantasy. Here, he was spot on, even if at times it felt a tad of déjà vu.